Kayak no 31

Has begun the work on the deck toggles. These are manufactured of one piece Jarrah coming from my grandmother's old outdoor table. Jarrah is according to NE "wood is heavy, hard and strong and has excellent resistance to rot and insects."
This sounds promising for something that will constantly be flushed with water.





Ropes, I ordered from kajaksaker.se 10 meters each of rubber cord 6 mm and deck rope 6 mm.
Ordered at 5:00 pm on Tuesday and received the delivery at 1:00 pm on Thursday, That's very good delivery time I think! Must also add that the 10 meters was almost 11 meters.

Re-thanks to Kajaksaker.se!

Kayak no 30

The final coat of the kayak!
I did a third and hopefully last layer on the bottom this afternoon. Now I just waiting on a sunny day off for a first try on water.
The last layer of coat was the easiest to do and there was enough whit half jar ZAR polyurethane varnish. If you want the kayak in a solid color it´s required about 100 grams of artist oil paint / layer.


The picture is taken before coating!

Kayak no 29

After rain comes sunshine! So they say, and it is the truth because it has been raining! Somewhere they said it was the coldest and most rainy June in 50 years.
So now when the sun is shining, it was time to paint a little on the kayak. I have done the bottom once, and the deck two times. This time I used plenty of artist oil paint in the warnish.





But wow what difficult it is to get evenly without running warnish.

Are not visible in the pictures but I have had to scrape of a lot of warnish between the coats.

Kayak no 28

I finally had time to give the kayak a first layer of coating.
My thoughts after the first layer:

It takes about 45 min / layer.
Mix CAREFULLY!
One jar / layer.
Don´t need to be diluted.
an extra jar to mix in is good.

Kayak no 27

The kayak ready for the first coat whit Zar Polyurethane

Kayak no 26

I think the seam on the foredeck was very successful. It looks like I used to thin gunwales because they are not in a smooth curve.

Nobody has told me about how difficult, time consuming and torment of the hands it is to sew the skin on the kayak.














After having sewn the skin it´s time to attach the coaming. I began to tighten with a strap but I had no force to it. Then I continued with a powerstrap from the car, it worked very well. I also took the chance to try with two boards and clamp, it also works fine, but it was difficult to get room to sew.





The best seem.











Rear of the cockpit.











Front of he cockpit.












My wery first greenlandic kayak ready for the first coat.

Kayak no 25

To skin a kayak is not a game.
I read somewhere that you should tighten the canvas to the ache in your hands, I took the word for it.
Either I have weak hands or it is the sinew. I sit with four plasters and whimpers, I may take a few days pause to get my hands healed. The aft deck of the kayak is sewn together and cut so it is only a tab at 2.5 cm left.





This tool is lent to me by my father, super easy to cut the skin with.